四国遍路・巡礼：Shikoku Pilgrimage　①

人は何故　巡礼を行うのだろうか？フランスにもスペインにもそれが存在している。私が知らないだけで世界中にも多くの巡礼地が存在して長い歴史と共に多くの物語を生んできていると思います。

ヨーロッパの場合には巡礼者たちはキリストや聖母マリアを祈りの対象として主に自分自身や家族の病を治して欲しいとか或いは過去の自らの悪しき思いや行いに対しての懺悔を込めて自己反省を深く行うために歩き始めるのだろうと思います。そして勿論、彼らは既に他界した自分自身の親や兄弟姉妹・先祖やお世話になった人たち或いは悲しいことに自分よりも先に天国に行った自身の可愛い子供や孫への哀悼の意を表すために天国での彼らの痛みや苦しみの無い日々を願っての長い旅を始めるのだろうと思います。

Shikoku Pilgrimage: Shikoku Pilgrimage ①

Why do people make pilgrimages? There are pilgrimages in France and Spain. I don't know about them, but I think there are many pilgrimage sites around the world that have produced many stories along with their long history.

In Europe, I think pilgrims start walking to pray to Christ or the Virgin Mary, mainly to heal themselves or their family's illnesses, or to deeply reflect on themselves and repent for their past bad thoughts and actions. And of course, they start their long journey to express their condolences for their parents, siblings, ancestors, people who have taken care of them, or sadly, their own cute children and grandchildren who have passed away before them, hoping for a day in heaven without pain or suffering for them.

一方、日本人にとっての四国巡礼ではキリストやマリアが祈りの対象ではないことは当然のことですね。彼らは多くの仏や四国巡礼の開祖である空海を心に持って歩んでいることは確かなことだと思います。そうして洋の東西を問わず、決して自分自身の幸せとか名誉や利潤のためを願ってこの旅をする人はいないだろうと私は強く感じています。何故ならばこのブログに以前に投稿しましたが、私自身が四国巡礼を僅か8歳の時に母に手を引かれておよそ一か月掛けてほぼ徒歩で成しとげてきたからです。私自身が遠い憧れの土地で何か偉大なものに触れられる思いがしていたからです。

On the other hand, it is only natural that for Japanese people, Christ and Mary are not the objects of prayer during the Shikoku pilgrimage. I believe that they certainly walk with many Buddhas and Kukai, the founder of the Shikoku pilgrimage, in their hearts. I strongly feel that no one, whether Eastern or Western, would undertake this journey in the hope of their own happiness, honor, or profit. This is because, as I previously posted on this blog, I myself completed the Shikoku pilgrimage when I was only eight years old, mostly on foot, led by my mother, over the course of about a month. This was because I felt that I was touching something great in a faraway land that I had longed for.

私が幼いながら何を祈っていたのかというと特に何も祈っていたことはありません。私は幼い頃には身体が弱くてよく病気をしていたから母が連れていってくれたことだけは理解しています。

ただ単純に思い得たことは早朝に出発して大自然の中で輝かしい大きな日の出を見て森林の中や海辺を歩み、夕方には大海原に悠々と沈む真っ赤な太陽の美しさに息を飲んで感嘆していた幼い自分がいたという事実です。日本アルプスの麓の山奥に生まれた自分ですから海の朝焼けとか海に沈む真っ赤な夕陽などを見たことも無いのでその感動は一層強いものでした。こんな大自然の中を一日中　数十キロと歩めば自然と体力も付いて元気になることは当然のことの様に思います。

When I was young, I didn't pray for anything in particular. I only know that my mother took me there because I was weak and often got sick when I was young.

All I can remember is that I was a child who would leave early in the morning, watch the glorious sunrise in the great outdoors, walk through the forest and along the seashore, and in the evening, gasp in admiration at the beauty of the bright red sun sinking leisurely into the ocean. I was born deep in the mountains at the foot of the Japanese Alps, so I had never seen a sunrise over the ocean or a bright red sunset sinking into the sea, so the impression was even stronger. I think it's only natural that you would naturally gain strength and become more energetic if you walk dozens of kilometers all day in such great nature.

そしてここに記すべきは両親が決断したその強い思いのことです。

私の故郷は飛騨の山奥の小さな村です。そこから四国までは直線距離にして５００ｋｍほどです。

当時はインターネットも無く宿の予約なども出来ないし徒歩で全行程を完歩するという強い想いだけでした。また二人の宿泊代など旅費を考えるとそれなりの金銭の余裕もなくては叶うことではありません。幸いなことに実家は小さなお店を営んでいて当時はダム工事などへの出稼ぎの方々が多くてお客様として来店されてお店の商いも順調だったから行かれたと母は述べていました。そして第一は両親がとても信心に篤くて実家の近くには空海（弘法大師）像をお迎えして御堂までも建立した二人だったことが最も巡礼に導いてくださったのだろうと確信しています。当時は電車ではなくて蒸気機関車の時代でしたし遠い異国に行くような思いでいっぱいでした。

And what I should mention here is the strong will my parents had when they made the decision.

My hometown is a small village deep in the mountains of Hida. It's about 500km from there to Shikoku in a straight line.

At that time there was no internet, so I couldn't even book lodgings, and I just had a strong will to complete the entire route on foot. Also, considering the travel expenses, such as accommodation for the two of us, it would not have been possible without a certain amount of financial leeway. My mother said that she went because, fortunately, my parents ran a small shop, and at the time, many people who were migrant workers for dam construction and other projects came to the shop as customers and business was going well. And I believe that the most important thing that led me to make the pilgrimage was that my parents were very devout and welcomed a statue of Kukai (Kobo Daishi) near their home and even built a temple. At that time, there were no trains, but steam locomotives, and I was filled with the feeling of going to a faraway foreign country.

さて、それでは四国巡礼のことをもう少し掘り下げて記していこうと思います。

一体、日本人は何故にそれ程までに四国巡礼に憧れるのだろうか？一体、四国巡礼では誰を拝んでいるのだろうか？　それには四国巡礼を開いた高僧である「弘法大師　Kouboudaishi（空海）Kukai」のことを少しでも知っていただかなくてはなりません。Kukaiは今からおよそ１２５０年前に　四国の愛媛県の名家に誕生しました。

父親は地方の取り締まりを司る役人で母親は信心深い優しい女性でした。そして空海は幼いころから利発な男児で神童とまで噂されていました。それ故に希望に燃えて１４歳で京都に行き勉学に励みます。　大学に入りますが１９歳の頃から山林での修行なども行うようになります。そして密教に出会いその教えを追究して不思議な体験を得ることが多くありました。そうしてその類まれな知力・学力によって遣唐使に推挙されました。唐に渡る船旅は当時のことですから非常に危険なことでしたが、やはり大嵐に遭遇して困難の末にようやく４か月を経て長安の都に入りました。

Well, I'm going to go a little deeper into the Shikoku pilgrimage.

Why on earth do Japanese people yearn for the Shikoku pilgrimage so much? Who on earth do they worship on the Shikoku pilgrimage?

To answer that, you need to know a little about Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the high priest who established the Shikoku pilgrimage.

Kuukai was born about 1250 years ago to a noble family in Ehime Prefecture, Shikoku.

His father was a local government official and his mother was a devout and kind woman.

Kuukai was a bright boy from an early age and was even rumored to be a child prodigy.

He was full of hope and went to Kyoto at the age of 14 to study hard.

He entered university, but from the age of 19, he began to practice in the mountains.

He encountered esoteric Buddhism and pursued its teachings, often having mysterious experiences.

He was recommended to be a Japanese envoy to Tang China due to his extraordinary intelligence and academic ability. The voyage to Tang was extremely dangerous at the time, and after encountering heavy storms and many hardships, they finally reached the capital of Chine:Choan after four months.

そして長安　青龍寺で運命の師　恵果和尚（Keika-oshou）に出会うことになります。約半年間に亘って師事します。

恵果和尚は空海の見事なまでの「力」を見抜いて密教の奥義の伝授を始めました。そうして空海は遍照金剛(Henjoukongou)という灌頂名（Kanjoumei）を授かりました。その後　間もなくして恵果和尚は己の使命が終わったかのように死を迎えます。空海はそこで体得した多くの学問・知恵・経典を日本に知らせて広めようという強い思いで過ごしておりました。本来ならば２０年間という唐留学期間なのですが深い学究のために２年間で滞在費が無くなったと認められて帰国の許可を得ます。帰国の折にも大きな嵐に遭い厳しい日々を送りますがようやく２か月後に博多に着きます。しかしながら２０年間の唐での学究を２年間で終えたことから朝廷は京都へ上ることの許しを与えませんでした。空海は博多でしばらく自身の学びを深めていくことになります。やがて空海と共に唐に渡っていた「最澄」（Saichou）が空海の上京の支援に尽力をしてついに３６歳で京都に入ることとなります。この最澄は元より僧としての位が高かったのです。共に唐で学んだ間柄であったのでこの縁が幸いしたのです。最澄は唐での空海の学びの姿に感嘆していただろうと想像します。

He then met his fateful teacher, the monk Keika-oshou, at the Qinglong Temple in Chang'an. He studied under him for about half a year.

Monk Keika recognized Kukai's amazing "power" and began to teach him the secrets of esoteric Buddhism. Kukai was then given the abbot's name Henjoukougou. Shortly thereafter, monk Keika died as if his mission had ended. Kukai spent his time there with a strong desire to spread the many learnings, wisdom, and scriptures he had mastered to Japan. His original study period in Tang was 20 years, but after two years of deep study, he was recognized as having run out of money for his stay and was allowed to return home. He encountered a big storm on his way back home and had difficult days, but finally arrived in Hakata two months later. However, since he had completed his 20 years of study in Tang in two years, the imperial court did not allow him to go to Kyoto. Kukai deepened his own learning in Hakata for a while. Eventually, Saicho, who had traveled to Tang China with Kukai, made an effort to support Kukai's journey to Kyoto, and he finally entered the city at the age of 36. Saicho was already a high-ranking monk. They had both studied in Tang China, so this was a fortunate connection. I imagine Saicho was amazed at how Kukai studied in Tang China.

空海は時の嵯峨天皇に認められるのですが、その理由としての一つは、それはお二人とも

「三筆」と呼ばれる内に入るほどの筆文字が実に上手かったから空海の書は嵯峨天皇の目に留まってのことと思われます。「三筆」（さんぴつ）：筆文字が上手な三人のこと：嵯峨天皇（Sagatennou・空海・橘逸勢（Tachibanano　Hayanari）。空海の書は多くの美術館などで見られますのでご覧ください。私の様な素人でもその集中力の詰まった素晴らしさに心震えます。

そうして嵯峨天皇の御心に沿って国家安泰の大祈祷を行います。その様にして彼は僧としての名を高め４２歳で「高野山」への開山を許可されて「高野山」の大伽藍を築くことになります。そして４９歳で京都の東寺を賜り、庶民も多くを学ぶことが出来る「綜藝種智院」（Sougeishuchiin）という学舎までも建てました。

Kukai was recognized by Emperor Saga at the time, and one of the reasons for this is that both of them were so skilled in calligraphy that they were included in the group known as the "Three Great Calligraphers," and Kukai's calligraphy caught the eye of Emperor Saga. "Three Great Calligraphers" (Sanpitsu): Three people skilled in calligraphy: Emperor Saga (Sagatennou), Kukai, and Tachibanano Hayanari. Kukai's calligraphy can be seen in many art museums, so please take a look. Even an amateur like me is moved by the splendor of his concentrated work. Then, in line with Emperor Saga's will, he performed a great prayer for the peace of the nation. In this way, he made a name for himself as a monk, and at the age of 42, he was allowed to open a temple at Mount Koya, and he built the great temple complex of Mount Koya. Then, at the age of 49, he was given Toji Temple in Kyoto, and even built a school called Sougeishuchiin, where common people could learn a lot.

空海はとにかく全国を行脚して病や日々の生活に苦しむ人々を救うことに懸命でした。水不足の地では雨乞いをして雨を降らせ、魚が獲れない港では祈祷を行って大漁の喜びを分かち合ったり、

歩けない人には祈祷を行って直ぐに歩かせたり、大地に杖を押し立て温泉を見つけて人々の病を治されました。この様な温泉が全国にとても多いですね。不思議な話が全国津々浦々に伝わっています。この様にして人々を救われた生涯でした。

Kukai traveled all over the country, doing his best to save people who were suffering from illness or daily life. In areas with a water shortage, he prayed for rain, in ports where fish could not be caught, he offered prayers and shared the joy of a good catch, he prayed for people who could not walk and helped them walk again, and he healed people's illnesses by pressing his walking stick into the ground to find hot springs. There are many hot springs like this all over the country. His mysterious stories are told all over the country. In this way, he lived a life of saving people.

５８歳での高野山の大きな行事の折に「願文」（Gaｍbun）として示された文章が空海の全てを表しているのではないでしょうか

「虚空尽き、衆生尽き、涅槃尽きなば、我が願いも尽きなん」=

「宇宙が尽きて無くなるまで　悟りを求める人々が尽きて無くなるまで

全ての生けるものが悟りを得るまでは私の願いは尽きて無くなることはない」

そして　６２歳で他界されます。

At the age of 58, during a major event at Mount Koya, the text presented as a "Gambun" (prayer) expressed everything about Kukai.  「Koku tsuki, shujou tsuki, nehan tsukinaba,

waganegaimo tsukinan] = Until the universe runs out, until the people who seek enlightenment run out, until all living beings attain enlightenment, my wishes will never run out." He then passed away at the age of 62.

この他界までのことがまた見事なまでに「即身成仏」（Sokushin-joubutsu）のそのものを示してくださいました。

病の重さを自覚された空海は高野山奥の院で「入定」（Nyujou）されます：精神統一を行い禅の心を深めて無我の境地に達することですが、肉体が滅び魂が永久に生きるという意味です。

空海は座禅のまま１０日間弥勒菩薩の真言を唱え続けられやがてそのお声も発せられなくなり入定されました。即身成仏とはまさに文字とおり「その身体がそのまま仏になる」という意味です。

文字のとおりに解するとミイラになるという意味ですが、それは短絡的な意味であって、本来の深い意味は「我々の肉体はそのままで仏であるからそのままを愛して大切にして生きていきなさい」という意味なのだろうと私は思います。空海の死後も未だ彼はその奥の院の「入定」の地で生きておられるとして１２００年も経ても毎日一日２回　高野山の僧侶たちによって食事が届けられています。それを唄う空海の御詠歌（ごえいかHymn）が有ります。

「ありがたや高野の山の岩陰に　大師は今もおわします」（Arigataya Takanono yamano Iwakageni Dishiha Imamo Owashimasu) 「有難いことです　高野山のこの小さな岩陰の中に空海は今も生きて我らのことを思っておられます」　

これが四国巡礼を開いた空海の生涯です。

This journey to the other world was a magnificent example of what Sokushinn-joubutsu (instantaneous enlightenment) is.

Realizing the seriousness of his illness, Kukai entered Nyuujou (entering nirvana) at the inner sanctuary of Mt. Koya: by concentrating his mind and deepening his Zen spirit, he reaches a state of egolessness, in which the body perishes and the soul lives forever.

For ten days, Kukai continued to chant the mantra of Maitreya Bodhisattva while in zazen, and eventually his voice became silent and he entered Nyuujou (entering nirvana). Sokushinn-joubutsu means exactly as it sounds, "the body becomes a Buddha as it is."

If taken literally, it means becoming a mummified body, but that is a simplified meaning, and I believe the original, deeper meaning is "our bodies are Buddhas just as they are, so love and cherish them as they are and live your life." Even after his death, it is believed that he is still alive in the inner sanctuary where he entered nirvana, and even after 1,200 years, meals are delivered to him twice a day by the monks of Mount Koya. There is a Goeika Hymn by Kukai that is sung for this purpose: "Thankfully, in the shade of this small rock on Mount Koya, the Great Master still resides." (Arigataya Takanono yamano Iwakageni Dishiha Imamo Owashimasu) "Thankfully, in the shade of this small rock on Mount Koya, Kukai still lives and thinks of us." This is the life of Kukai, who started the Shikoku pilgrimage.

もう一つだけ　逸話を記します。

空海が唐にいた時に、帰国したら必ずこの教えを日本で広めるから、そのための

大伽藍の寺院が要る　その力が頂ければ必ずその地にこれを届けよ！と言って

手にしていた独鈷を空高く放り上げます　するとその独鈷は見なくなってしまった、と。

そうして空海が高野山の地に入った時にふと松の木を見上げるとそこにその独鈷が見つかった、と。

では次に四国巡礼②をお楽しみください。

I'll tell you just one more anecdote.

When Kukai was in Tang Dynasty, he said that when he returned to Japan he would definitely spread these teachings, and for that purpose he needed a large temple. If you could give me your power, I would definitely send this to this land! He then threw the dokko he was holding high into the air, and it disappeared from sight.

Then, when Kukai entered the land of Mount Koya, he happened to look up at a pine tree and found the dokko there.

Now, please enjoy Shikoku Pilgrimage No.2.